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COLLECTION MANIFIESTO

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This was our first zerowaste collection, showcased on Saturday, April 1st. 2017, opening the Berlin Alternative Fashion Week.

 

With this collection we explored our argentinian roots, our identity, history and the popular culture (folklore) of our country of origin. We focused on rethinking the local fashion industry, concentrating on traditional icons from our popular culture, such as the famous pagan figure of the Gauchito Gil, a local gaucho from the 19th century who was both a martyr and a renegade.

The gaucho figure was our main source of inspiration for the aesthetic and concept of this collection. The gaucho, our local cowboy, was a criollo, the son of the spanish colonizer and the aborigines. He was typically a rebel, an outsider who lived by his own rules, in harmony with nature and the original inhabitants of this lands, the Pampas.

The gaucho defended national values, but even so, he was considered a rebel. He did not respect the ruling political class that responded to the Spanish crown.

 

By producing this collection we did not only not generated waste. We also used waste as our basic raw material. The collection was composed by a 90% from leather and metal discards from the local industry of leather goods and footwear in Argentina, as well as discarded materials from the production of our own former collections and some customized vintage pieces of clothing. The other 10% of the materials is composed by new supplies necessary for the completion of the garments (rivets, eyelets).

 

We intended to open a debate about sustainability in the fashion industry in Argentina. We are also aware that particularly leather production is highly polluting. We also pretend to focus on this issue and ask questions that lead to possible sustainable alternatives.

 

Leather industry has been traditional in Argentina since the end of the 19th century, in conjunction with the development of livestock and the refrigeration industry. 80% of production is exported in the form of semi-finished and finished leathers and the remaining 20% supplies the domestic market in the footwear, leather goods and leather goods industry. The most tanneries are located in the Matanza-Riachuelo basin, in Buenos Aires city. The tannery sector was identified in 2006 by the National Secretariat of Environment and Sustainable Development as responsible for 50% of the environmental degradation of the area. With around 170 tanneries, it is the most polluting industry in the area. 500 kg of chemicals are needed to process one ton of leather. The production generates large volumes of solid and liquid waste with a combination of organic and inorganic compounds.

 

Great leather industries in Argentina have not adopted effective strategies to end the problem of contamination of water by dumping of dangerous substances, taking advantage of lax local legislation and lack of controls. Acumar is the agency dedicated to monitoring and controlling the environmental situation in the area. Sources: Instituto Nacional de Tecnología Industrial - http://www.inti.gob.ar/sabercomo/sc37/inti9.php, Greenpeace Argentina http://www.greenpeace.org/argentina/Global/argentina/report/2012/contaminacion/Cueros-Toxicos-Riachuelo.pdf